1998 Grand Canyon, California Trip, part 10

Parting Thoughts / Lessons Learned
Photographically speaking, there may be more good landscape/nature pictures to be had at the Emigrant Wilderness than at the Grand Canyon. However, just being able to say that you hiked rim-to-rim has a nice, manly sound to it. It’s just very hard to capture the majesty of the Grand Canyon photographically. Human eyes can see far more contrast and depth than you can get from a picture. I have seen great pictures of the Canyon but was only moderately impressed. You definitely need to go see it in person. Maybe you’ll even cry and say “oh my god” like some folks I saw. OK, maybe you won’t cry, but you’ll definitely be impressed.

If you don’t like crowds, go to the North Rim. It’s closed in winter and it takes 3-4 hours longer to get to from Phoenix or Flagstaff than the South Rim. This extra travel time required really thins the herds. Plus, it’s 1000 feet higher than the South Rim, which makes it cooler in the summer. Also, the view from the North Rim Lodge bar while you’re having a beer or margarita is one of the best in the world. But, you also need to see Plateau Point, which is much easier to hike to from the South Rim.

You can hike down the Bright Angel Trail to the Indian Garden campground, then out to Plateau Point and back out in a long day hike (12 miles round trip, 3000+ feet of elevation change), but it’s tough, and it takes twice as long to hike out as it does to hike in. Allow 10-12 hours, and bring plenty of water and food. If you’re doing a long hike, Gatorade / drink mix powders to mix in your water bottle can help prevent “water intoxication”. Heed all heat precautions...it gets very hot in the Canyon interior, even though it may be cool on the Rim. The advantage of backpack camping or staying down at Phantom Ranch is that you can hike at a much more leisurely pace, knowing you have a place to stay in the Canyon. But you have to plan and get reservations for Phantom Ranch and campgrounds pretty far in advance. If you stay at Phantom Ranch, be sure to pick up a Phantom Ranch t-shirt, which they only sell down there (can’t get ‘em in the rim gift shops).

If you want to go to Plateau Point and Phantom Ranch but don’t want to hike, you can take a mule ride. However, this really doesn’t appeal to me personally. I don’t like being stuck with a large tour group. Also, there are some pretty hairy spots along some points of the trail where there are some steep cliffs and drop-offs. I think I’d rather be standing on my own two feet rather than sitting 6 feet up on a swaying mule next to a cliff edge. Remember, the mules walk CLOSER to the edge of the cliff when passing other hikers.

So go there. Hike. You can definitely get away from quite a bit of the crowds by hiking, esp. at the South Rim. Be blown away by the view. Take some awesome photographs, but don’t put your film back in the camera after you’ve already exposed it once. Take water (and drink mix). Don’t feed the animals ... they’ll find your food and take it from your pack without your help. A headlamp is useful. A walking stick is useful. Earn the T-shirt. Get out of the mules’ way. Don’t fall in. The Grand Canyon most certainly does not suck.